Ultimate cruising guide to the islands of Phuket
by Riviera Australia 16 Feb 20:49 PST
Thailand's largest island lures visitors year-round who want to bask on its unspoiled beaches and swim in its pristine waters. Martin Holmes, dealer principal at Lee Marine Phuket, shares a local's guide to exploring the islands of Phuket.
The clear blue waters around the beautiful island of Phuket offer some of the most spectacular and fascinating cruising opportunities for anyone who loves boats and boating. The island is surrounded by some 32 smaller islands, all within a few hours voyage.
Phuket is Thailand's largest island, 867 kilometres almost directly south of Bangkok. It lies between the Andaman Sea which stretches between India to the west and the Gulf of Thailand to the east.
The island is about the same size as Singapore, measuring 48 kilometres long and 21 kilometres at its widest part.
Phuket is blessed with a lush tropical landscape, magnificent coves and bays, white beaches, small surrounding islands, hospitable people and great seafood. It features delightful Chinese-Portuguese architecture, a hangover from a Portuguese explorer who charted the area in 1545 and subsequent tin mining, largely undertaken by Chinese labourers.
The area offers all-year-round boating. Thailand really has only two seasons; wet and dry - which runs from early December through to the end of April during which time winds are light and from the north-east, making for perfect conditions on both the east and west coast of Phuket. From May until November the south-west monsoon comes in, bringing rain and windy conditions. Boating is still enjoyable in the waters to the east of the island, especially in Phang Nga Bay - which offers a lot of protection - and the islands between Phuket and Krabi province on the mainland, directly east of Phuket.
The water temperature is 30 degrees all-year-round and air temperatures also remain steady, although the humidity rises during the SW monsoon.
Phuket is seven degrees North of the equator and so avoids the strong thunderstorms found in Singapore and is outside the typhoon belt which affects the South China Sea, Hong Kong and Japan.
Before you step aboard, a few hints may make your cruising adventure even more pleasant and exciting.
Tips to further improve your adventure
Thai cuisine: Thai cuisine is renowned for its flavours, spices, and variety. While in Phuket, be sure to try these local dishes:
- Tom Yum Goong: A spicy and sour shrimp soup with lemongrass and lime leaves.
- Massaman curry: A rich and flavourful curry with tender chunks of meat or vegetables.
- Som Tum: A spicy papaya salad with lime, chili, fish sauce, and peanuts.
- Pad Thai: Stir-fried noodles with shrimp or chicken, bean sprouts, and peanuts.
- Mango sticky rice: A sweet dessert made with ripe mango, glutinous rice, and coconut milk.
Remember to specify your spice level preference when ordering as Thai cuisine can be quite spicy. Enjoying local dishes is a delightful way to immerse yourself in Thai culture.
Cultural Sensitivity: When you visit local communities or temples, remember that their religious and social mores may be very different from your own. Dress modestly and show respect for local customs and traditions.
Environmental Responsibility: When snorkelling or diving, avoid touching or damaging coral reefs and marine life. Dispose of garbage responsibly.
Fishing stakes and nets: You are almost certain to encounter many fishing stakes throughout the entire cruising grounds. They are usually marked by a flag on a stick and a buoy that holds and marks a line leading down to a fish trap on the sea floor. Sometimes these markers will also indicate fishing nets that are usually set a few metres below the surface with only a flag at either end to identify them. Be aware, too, that sometimes the flag has gone missing and just a thin bamboo stick is left behind; they can be very hard to see!
Always keep a close lookout, give them a wide berth and preferably pass to leeward or you will easily get their ground lines snagged on your keel, rudders and even worse, the propeller!
Fishing boats: You will also encounter many colourful and unique fishing boats of all sizes. Once again, keep a close watch. Often the drivers are too busy working to notice they are on a collision course with you. If you are travelling at night, be aware they may not have navigation lights. It is prudent to give way to them. After all, you are on a holiday, and they are busy at work.
When they are at anchor, they have rope anchor rode with a lot of scope so pass well behind if safe to do so. It is often possible to purchase fresh fish from these fishermen.
Let's go cruising
Ao Po Grand Marina on the north-eastern shore of Phuket Island is the most popular place to begin your cruise.
Day Trips / Weekends Away
With hundreds of islands in very close proximity to Phuket, you don't have to go far to enjoy a day on the water. The nearest sandy beach island to Ao Po Marina is less than two nautical miles away. These are some of my personal favourite spots that also avoid the 'day tripper speedboat' crowds.
Koh Mai Thon / Koh Racha Yai
About 18 nautical miles south of Ao Po Marina is Koh Mai Thon. A semi-private island with a private resort situated at the north end, this is a thin strip island around four kilometres long, featuring white sandy beaches and clear water on the east side and a rockier side with deeper water to the west. Halfway down the west side is a small but protected bay with up to eight mooring buoys. This is a great spot to spend the day. With fewer visitors here than other places, the snorkelling is great, and it is a relaxing spot to enjoy lunch. By timing your departure with the change of tide, it is possible to see dolphins feeding along the east coast which can be a bonus to any day out.
Koh Phanak - Phang Nga Bay
Further north in the wide Phang Na Bay is the famed James Bond island, Ko Phing Kan, including the iconic villain's lair made famous in the movie The Man with the Golden Gun. The island is one of the smallest and least impressive islands in the bay. Instead, avoid the crowds and head for Ko Phanak. Koh Phanak is just seven nautical miles from Ao Po Marina and is a very scenic limestone karst of around four kilometres in length. The waters around the island are relatively deep and you can cruise close to the cliffs. The islands are protected as a marine national park and so the lush, dense vegetation and wildlife are there to be experienced. Think monkeys and sea eagles. There are a few small coves that can be accessed by tender to explore and take a private lunch. The highlight of Koh Phanak is to join a sea canoe tour that will take you into the island through one of the caves which are only accessible with a guide and at the right tide. Over millennia, some of these predominantly limestone islands have collapsed in on themselves creating open air grottos which have to be seen to be believed. These grottos are called hongs in Thai, meaning room.
Ko Hong Krabi / Ko Pak Bia
Cruising directly east about 18 nautical miles from Ao Po Grand Marina are two relatively large islands of Koh Yao Noi (small) and Koh Yao Yai (big). The passage between them brings you to the Krabi province islands that feel like a thousand miles from Phuket. You can spend a day exploring all 14 of these spectacular islands. The main island, Koh Hong, has good anchorage and a sandy beach where you can walk up to a skywalk that offers stunning views. As the island's name suggests, there is also a hong which you can explore by tender, when the tide is right.
If Koh Kong is too busy with tourists, cruise north to Ko Pak Bia, or another of the 12 surrounding islands, and you will most likely have the island to yourself.
Nai Harn Bay / Promthep Cape
On the south-west corner of Phuket Island, is Nai Harn Bay, 30 nautical miles from Ao Po Marina. This is a wide bay that offers the best overnight protection on the west coast and is thus generally reserved for the north-east monsoon season. Popular with kite-boarders and sailors and home to the first Phuket Yacht Club, Nai Harn has one of the best beaches in Phuket and some of the clearest water given its southernmost location. There are beach bars and restaurants ashore, and you can also go to the nearby Promthep Cape which is famous for spectacular sunsets and views across the Andaman Sea. It is a good place to meet up with boating friends as there is plenty of space in the anchorage. Maybe take in a sunset cruise.
Phi Phi Islands and Ko Ha
Phi Phi Islands need no introduction. Hotels and resorts are on the big island of Phi Phi Don, just over 30 nautical miles south-east from Ao Po. The anchorage in Phi Phi Don is perfectly secure, although it can get a little busy in the high season.
Deeper water around Phi Phi makes this area arguably one of the best locations for diving; you won't want for dive shops. A wreck dive is just a few miles away.
Phi Phi has changed over the years from being a very busy tourist destination to now being less so since the tsunami in 2004. Nevertheless, Phi Phi can get busy thanks to its fame, but it's a must see. Nearby Phi Phi Lei is picturesque, and it is where Leonardo DiCaprio's movie, The Beach, was filmed. The Phi Phi islands are predominantly Muslim as they come under Krabi province jurisdiction. With limited anchorages available for private boats around Phi Phi Lei, a good option is to join a tour boat that will take you into all the bays and hongs without the hassle.
Further afield
Ko Lanta / Koh Ha
Further on from Phi Phi and about 50 nautical miles south-east from Ao Po Marina lies the southern Thai island of Ko Lanta featuring nine sandy beaches, mangroves, waterfalls and forested hills. More than half of the island is national park. Ko Lanta is a destination best explored during the north-east monsoon.
Koh Lanta reminds me of Phuket 25 years ago with a slow pace of life and it is easily explored in a day on a motorbike. Yet, with the islands of Phi Phi and Ko Ha nearby, this can be a great staging point from which to enjoy good diving.
Ko Ha is a small group of five islands (Ha means five in Thai) featuring coral fringes and fantastic clear blue waters. This is an excellent day location to explore before returning to Ko Lanta for an overnight anchorage.
Similan Islands
The Similan Islands are an archipelago of 11 islands in the Andaman Sea about 50 nautical miles north-north-west of the west coast of Phuket. The group is open only from October to May each year and its attractions are open only to a limited number of visitors each day. You must apply for a permit before visiting as a private yacht. It is possible to stay overnight with prior permission, and this is usually reserved for those people who are diving. The Similan National Park is closely governed to ensure its protection and beauty. That beauty is mostly below the surface of the crystal-clear waters. This is considered one of the top 10 dive sites in the world, with abundant marine life and the odd sea turtle coming to check out your boat.
Surin islands
Further north from the Similan islands and about 85 nautical miles from the west coast of Phuket, the Surin Islands are my favourite. Also protected as a national park but without the need for pre-arranged permits, the archipelago covers an area of around 320 square kilometres and includes the picturesque island of Koh Tachai and sublime scuba diving at Richelieu Rock where manta rays and whale sharks are often sighted.
Surin Island is home to the indigenous Moken people who have lived and fished on the island for centuries. You could not wish to meet friendlier people and a visit to their village to experience their way of life is like stepping back in time.
With plenty to explore, great snorkelling everywhere and safe anchorages, this is a place that few people get to see, and you can spend many days here, forgetting what day it is.
Ko Phayam / Myanmar border
Ko Phayam, the last Thai island 130 nautical miles from Phuket's west coast and just 30 nautical miles north-west from the Surin Islands is before crossing the border into Myanmar. It is therefore the perfect staging point to explore the Myanmar archipelago that stretches 200 nautical miles to the north.
Phayam is a large island with a slow pace of life. Most of the villagers make a living from coastal fishing and rubber and cashew plantations. The principal bay and anchorage is Ao Yai with a 3.4 kilometre black sand beach which is dotted with makeshift bars and restaurants, the spots to enjoy fabulous sunsets. There is perhaps no better round-trip cruise than Phuket-Similan-Surin-Phayam-Phuket.
I hope that this guide has inspired you to expand your adventures in your own Riviera motor yacht. For more information about cruising around Phuket in the Andaman Sea and Phang Nga Bay, contact our Thailand representative Martin Holmes at Lee Marine, phone +66 (0) 81 891 7057 or by email,